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Vintage Mido

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For a young lady that wanted a nice old mechanical watch. The Mido is a high quality Swiss watch with a lovely vintage look.

However the brand Mido does not ring as well as Longines or Omega this days, and the size that used to be a man’s watch, is now commonly preferred by ladies. A great way to get a good watch at a fair price!

I have serviced it and repaired the vintage strap.

Mido

Filed Under: Blogg Tagged With: Mido

The lovely Omega 260 series calibers

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Represented by this caliber 266, the 265, 266, 267, 268 and 269 movements from Omega were produced from the early forties and well into the sixties og the previous century.

They are direct decendens of the 30T calibers and show clear resemblance to pocket watch movements.

With a pace of 18 000 a/h the watch has no hurry. It minds it’s own business and beats along slowly but surely, a bit like an old man. Tom Waits has this great song called «Ol’ 55» about his trip home from his lover (I presume):

Well there’s trucks all a-passing me,
And the lights are all flashing,
I’m on my way home from your place.

Sure, there are some cool new watches out there totally overtaking this grandfather, but he remains untouched.

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Above: On top is the 266 caliber, and below it the 40-6 pocket watch movement. The structure is more or less the same, and both movements feature the small seconds subdial.

Below: The movent before disassembly looks like it has never before been taken apart. Is that even possible? By the look of the case it has been worn regularly for years, but these screws…!

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These movements are fitted with the «overcoil» hairspring or balance spring credited to Abraham-Louis Breguet. The difference between the Breguet spring and the regular hairspring is that it is concentric, meaning that the power stored and released as the spring opens and closes (while the balance turns from side to side) stays centered. The layout of the spring is in two levels, hence the term overcoil.

A wristwatch will experience any thinkable position while in use, and gravity will have much more impact on the hairspring if the force and weight of it moves off center all the time, in eccentric motions. There is an article on TimeZone about the escapement that gives a very comprehensive overview of the heart of a watch movement.

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Being old and possibly never ever serviced, I ripped this one into every possible piece. Normally I will leave the parts not moving at all as long as they look good.

Cleaning and lubricating was a dream, and now it is running well. I did order a new main spring for it, as my winder would not grab the center of this one, and I managed to break the spring in a clumsy attempt to refit it. A brand new spring will be good for it anyway!

Filed Under: Blogg Tagged With: Omega 260

The classic wrist watch

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They are classy, they are less expensive than new ones and they are just as reliable. Besides, let’s face it, who needs a watch to keep time to the second these days?

What watch can possibly be better than a classic wrist watch? Find your favourite style from the best designers of your choice and you never need to get bored again! One glance at your wrist is all it takes to spin your head with interesting thoughts. What was it like back in the day when this watch was assembled? Who worked at the factories and who bought this particular watch?

Wearing a vintage time piece is in practice to keep a tradition alive. An old watch is a live reminicense of the past and it bridges between past, present and future. We carry our ancestor’s wisdom, knowledge and even culture into new fashions and changing times. Very few artifacts act as a carriers of tradition in such an obvious way. The sensation of winding up your watch in the morning is another reason to look for the vintage mechanical watch. There is always time for this gesture and if you give it a little thought while you are at it, you may enjoy a filosophical moment to yourself.

The Golden age
The fifties and sixties are sometimes referred to as The Golden Age of watchmaking. In these times quality was the most important factor in many manufacturing industries. Since the beginning of the industrial revolution, quality was as an important a factor as efficiancy. After World War two, every nation did it’s best to re-establish prosperity and wellfare. Things were to be better than ever, and for the wrist watches this led to some amazing time pieces. Even if the watches tend to be fairly uniform in style, there is no need to look for the top brands to get an excellent time keeper from this era.

Certina

A great example is this Certina DS. With an in-house movement Kurth Frères, the makers of Certina, put tremendous efforts into the development of reliable movements second to none, really. Furthermore they placed a chunky 2.4mm rubber ring around it, clutching the movement within the watch case. Certina’s aim was clearly to acheive recognition for their quality.

My next example is the Paul Portinoux picured below. Like a lot of other more or less known Swiss watch brands, and by the time this one saw the light of day, Paul Portinoux were no longer making their own movements. Here we find an ETA 2472 caliber automatic movement, a well built reliable movement still going strong. Mind you, the hair spring on this particular one is fading, thus running uneven. Still, to quote Tom Waits; «Ain’t nothing wrong with her a hundered dollars won’t fix».

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The dial is tarnished and the crown is wrong for the case but the band and the crystal is new, and the watch carries it’s age with great dignity. It cost me about USD 30 on ebay and a few hours work to get it working for another five to seven years. With a beating rate of 18 000 a/h, this old friend even ticks like a pensioned seaman, full of stories and in no hurry what so ever to tell them.

My third proud ambssador from the mid fifties is the Omega featured in the headline. Well I guess Omega needs no further introduction, and this is reflected in the ample amount of watches available as well as their prices, 100-1000% above the less sought after vintage watches. And not without reason. Featuring a very reliable Breguet hair spring and a robust movement, not to mention the design. The movement had been thoroghly tested and tried through several decades by the time they were named caliber 265 through 269, the 284 and 285. The eighty series have center second hands whereas the sixty series all have a small sub second dial placed at six on the dial. These too are blessed with the slow 18k pace.

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Omega have been humble and true to this success and are still looking back to the vintage collection when designing new faces. In today’s Seamasters there are clear references to the first models from and before the golden age. Not to mention the Speedmaster which still is almost unchanged since 1957 and still as popular as ever!

On the whole I dare say that Omega mastered the design very well and still do. Looking at most watches then and now, there are often a few details disturbing the cleanliness or the neatness of a case, dial and hands. This is about esthetics, I know. There are few concrete rules or facts, but still I will claim that the majority of these classic Omegas radiate a calmness you only see when all the elements present work together to form a perfect look.

So, the next time you consider digging deep into your pockets for that latest technology wrist watch, take a deep breath and a good look at the vintage collection available. I promise you will be charmed by patina, ruggedness, reliability and, sometimes, price. And you get to carry a piece of history with you, just like an old uncle, following, making sure you are behaving right. Your cell phone keeps track of time. All you need to do is enjoy your fine time piece!

Filed Under: Blogg Tagged With: Certina, classic, golden age, Omega, Paul Portinoux, vintage

The legendary DS

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No, unfortunately this is not about the Citroën DS, but the Certina DS, another great invention from the fifties and sixties. I believe this watch to be underestimated and underrated.

Upon receiving this good looking vintage watch I started digging the web for information. It turns out this is a time piece with an obvious place in the hall of fame of Swiss watchmaking, and horology as such. Like in so many other fields, the post second world war era in engineering was driven with an aim for PERFECTION. To make things better and best was far more important than cost benefit ratios. The Certina engineers experienced that a normal shock proof watch was able to withstand a fall to the ground from about two meters. They worked on improving this figure, and thus created the DS – Double Security.

They placed the 25-661 manual movement in there, and later models had automatic movements in the same series.

The watches are apparently able to take a six meters fall. This feature put Certina watches in expeditions to the Himalaya which in turn made great publicity.

The movement, dial and hands are «floating», held in place by a relatively thick yellow rubber band inside the steel case. It is like a bumper car in there, well protected against rough exterior handling.

I really enjoy this feature. The watch is like many others from the same period, and at a first glance it may look quite ordinary. Knowing what is underneath the dial and case gives me a great feeling.

The movement is very clean and precise. I really recognise the Swiss quality at its peak hour. In my opinion the fifties and sixties make the age when watchmaking was a profession of pure excellence. There are several amazing inventions and models made since, I know, but the need to be profitable and crave for commercial success dampens the true art of engineering. But there are exceptions, luckily, and all in all I am confident that the art of watchmaking is well taken care of. Computer aided work, laser cutting and on the other hand artists like Roger W. Smith are examples of this. What I miss is the overall optimism and dedication. There is less of that stuff around today. But I digress, Lets get to work!

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This one was running rather well, but by the look of the movement and screws it had never been serviced, so I decided it is time. Now it is running even stronger and it is my daily watch. Surely one of the most charming watches I have come across!

For more information about the DS take a look at vintagecertinas.ch

Filed Under: Blogg Tagged With: Certina DS

Brathwait-klokkene er i butikken, endelig!

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Filed Under: Blogg Tagged With: Brathwait

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